Fragrance FAQS
Fragrance Terms:
The most practical way to start describing a perfume is according to its concentration level, the family it belongs to, and the notes of the scent, which all affect the overall impression of a perfume from first application to the last lingering hint of scent.
All fragrances have abbreviations in the titles such as EDT, EDP, etc. These terms refer to the strength of the fragrance and it is important to understand these terms before purchasing your fragrances or you could end up being disappointed.
Aftershaves: 0.5 - 2% perfume oil
Eau de cologne: EDC 2 - 5% perfume oil
Eau de Toilette: EDT 5 - 20% perfume oil
Eau de parfum: EDP 10 - 30% perfume oil
Parfum or Perfume: 20 - 40% perfume oil (the most concentrated)
As the percentage of Perfume oil decreases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent created. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form within the same range, the actual amounts can vary between perfume houses.
An EDT from one perfume house may be stronger than an EDP from another.
Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes. In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to fragrance names might indicate completely different fragrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord. An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée.
Fragrance Wheel:
The Fragrance wheel is a relatively new classification method that is widely used in retail and in the fragrance industry. The method was created in 1983 by Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume industry, who designed his own scheme of fragrance classification after being inspired by a fragrance seminar by Firmenich. The new scheme was created in order to simplify fragrance classification and naming scheme, as well as to show the relationships between each individual classes.
The five standard families consist of Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fougère, and Fresh, with the former four families being more "classic" while the latter consisting of newer bright and clean smelling citrus and oceanic fragrances that have arrived due to improvements in fragrance technology. With the exception of the Fougère family, each of the families are in turn divided into three sub-groups and arranged around a wheel
1. Floral:
- Floral
- Soft Floral
- Floral Oriental
2. Oriental:
- Soft Oriental
- Oriental
- Woody Oriental
3. Woody:
- Wood
- Mossy Woods
- Dry Woods
4. Fresh:
- Citrus
- Green
- Water
5. Fougère:
The Fougère family is placed at the center of this wheel since they are a large family of scents that usually contain fragrance elements from each of the other four families.
In this classification scheme, Chanel No.5, which is traditionally classified as a "Floral aldehyde" would be located under Soft Floral sub-group, and "Amber" scents would be placed within the Oriental group. As a class, Chypres is more difficult to place since they would be located under parts of the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko, which is classically identified as a chypre will be placed under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge, a chypre with more floral character, would be placed under Floral Oriental.
Fragrance Notes:
Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three 'notes', making the harmonious chord of the scent. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.
Top Notes:
The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly: they form a person's initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes. Also called the head notes.
Middle Notes:
The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of middle note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere from two minutes to one hour after the application of a perfume. Lavender and rose scents are typical middle notes. Also called the heart notes.
Base Notes:
The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and middle notes. Consisting of large, heavy molecules that evaporate slowly, compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down. Some base notes can still be detectable in excess of twenty-four hours after application, particularly the animalic notes.
Storing fragrances so they last longer:
Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of:
- Heat
- Light
- Oxygen
- Extraneous organic materials
Proper preservation of perfumes involve keeping them away from sources of heat and storing them where they will not be exposed to light. Excessive exposure to these conditions will alter the chemistry and the consistency of your fragrance. Correct storage procedures will help ensure that your fragrance will remain as fresh as the day you bought it. So make sure you don't store your perfume bottles on a window ledge, in the fridge or even in the bathroom.
An opened bottle will keep its aroma intact for up to a year, as long as it is full or nearly so, but as the level goes down, the presence of oxygen in the air that is contained in the bottle will alter the perfume's smell character, eventually distorting them.
How can I make my fragrances last longer?
Prolonging the life of your fragrance on the skin is a key element to getting the most out of your fragrance. Factors that will determine how long a fragrance will last on your skin include whether you have dry or oily skin. For example, users with dry skin will find they are unable to absorb the fragrance oils as effectively into their skin as someone who has an oilier skin type.
Fragrances will last longer on well hydrated and well moisturized skin, so the best time to apply your fragrance is when you get out of the bath or shower.
Using the 'layering technique' will assist in making your fragrance last longer. The term 'layering' is, using the same scented shower gel, body lotion / moisturiser, talcum powder applied to damp skin, followed by your fragrance or cologne. Allow your fragrance to dry naturally. Do not rub your wrists together because this will damage the chemical composition of the perfume and cause the fragrance to break down quicker.
Where should I apply my fragrance?
The human body pulse points give off more heat than other parts of the body due to the blood vessels being close to the skin, so we suggest you apply your fragrance to your pulse points, eg: wrists, neck, crease of your arm, the back of your knees, ankles and your cleavage area. The heat of the body from these pulse points will help to accentuate your fragrance; by applying your fragrance onto skin from the feet to the shoulders allows the fragrance to blossom upwards.
Avoid using a fragrance close to your face or behind the ears. The scent won't last and it can dry out and age your your skin.
Handy Tips
** Applying a light application of vaseline then applying your fragrance directly over the vaseline can make your fragrance last longer.
** (For the ladies)We suggest spraying a small amount of your fragrance on to a cotton ball and tucking it in your bra (cleavage).
** We do not recommend storing or keeping your fragrances in the fridge.
** Fragrances can do more for you than make you "smell nice". Use your fragrance to enhance your look / your mood. A light spray of a fragrance containing Lavender can help you in having a restful nights sleep; Vanilla or Lavender calms your nerves and relieves stress, whilst fragrances containing citrus, grapefruit, lemon or green can give a boost / lift to the feeling of sluggishness. Likewise fragrances containing Sandalwood, Amber, Jasmine or Musk, can make you feel more sensual.
** Generally speaking intense spicy fragrances are more popular in the colder months and used for evening or special occasions, whilst the light and fruity florals are more suitable for the warmer months and day / casual wear.
** Want your hair to smell as great as your skin? Try spraying a little of your fragrance on your palms / fingers then lightly run your hands through the hair. We suggest this is only done on fresh clean hair as the oils from your hair can change the composition and smell of your fragrance. We do not recommend spraying a fragrance on a hair brush and running through your hair.
** Whatever fragrance you use remember don’t over do it. Your fragrance should be a subtle personal message you send to those with whom you come in contact.